The
Great Gujarat Road Odyssey – Day 6
The
road from Bhuj to Lakhpat is not the most scenic; it is not the scariest
either, but it is the most fun you will ever have on a road. The entire stretch
is a roller coaster ride that will send you soaring into the air and then push
you down the knife like edge as you hurtle down into another abyss.
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| Kutch Ki Khushboo |
There
is no plan to go sightseeing in Bhuj. You have been here a couple of years ago
and had seen the earthquake damaged Prag Mahal and the beautiful Aina Mahal with
its lovely museum. Bhuj also has the Bhujiya Fort, recently vacated by the
Army, where nothing remains except the walls.
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| A Pagli - Kutch Nahin Dekha to Kuch Nahin Dekha |
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| Leaving Bhuj for Lakhpat |
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| The Attractions await |
The
plan for today is simple. Start from Bhuj in the morning and get to Lakhpat
Fort by afternoon. On the way there are Buddhist Caves called Siyot Caves or
Kateshwar. Stay would be at Narayan Sarovar tonight. But then this is Kutch
and here Kuch Bhi Ho Sakta Hai (anything is possible in Kutch)!
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| Sarson Ke Khet - Unbelievable but yes this is Kutch |
You
hit the highway right away. This is Kutch and the surprises start coming in
right away. So even as you keep moving around in Kutch known for its salt
marshes and unforgivable land you keep seeing patches of mustard fields
looking brilliant under the sun. There is something about the yellow flowers
that pull you in. Seeing the brightly lit yellow fields this far from the farms
up North is a visual delight. You stop to inhale the intoxicating aroma of
sarson in the morning nip.
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| Punvareshvar Temple at Manjal, Kutch |
Soon
Kutch brings in the first surprise of the day. You are passing by the village
of Manjal in the Nakhatrana taluqa. By the road, on the left, you can see the
unmistakable ruins of a temple. Such sights send your pulse racing. You stop
and dash out to investigate.
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| West facing Shiv Temple called Punvareshvar Temple at Manjal, Kutch resembling the King Sized Bhojpur Temple near Bhopal |
The
Department of Archaeology, Government of Gujarat’s sign says this is the
Punvareshvar Temple. It is apparent that the deadly earthquake of 2001 had
inflicted major damage to this west facing Shiv Temple. The temple is built on
a high platform with big slabs of stone. In form, this temple reminds you of the
King Sized Bhojpur Temple near Bhopal, MP. The temple combines both Dravida and
Nagara styles and probably dates back to 9th century. The shikhar is
almost gone. Looking at old photos, it is apparent that more of the shikhar has
come down in the last decade. Maybe ASI has plans to rebuild it but looking at
the sad general state of heritage in Gujarat, you doubt it. There is no
decoration on the outside of the walls. Inside, bathroom tiles decorate the
floor. The mandap ceiling has rosettes.
This
is a living temple and devotees keep dropping in. Around the sanctum there is
an ambulatory path. Temple members are scattered around making walking
difficult. The best part of the temple and the only ornamentation are the
various bhaarvahaks or bharaputrakas. You walk out into the grounds covered with broken
members and thorny bushes. Looking up at the eastern side, you finally see the
decorated elements of the shikhar. It does seem the temple has been rebuilt at
a later date using the harvested stone members.
The
devotees inform there are more attractions in the neighbourhood.
Apparently
this entire area is the fort of Paddhargadh or Punvaranogadh. Just beyond, few
yards away lie the ruins of palaces. Paddhargadh was founded in 9th
century by Ra Punvro, son of Ghav who was chief of Kera, Kutch. Punvro wanted
to build his own city. Once completed, Punvro cut off the hands of the
architect. You are sure you have heard similar stories of chopping of hands
before! It does seem the job of architects and construction workers was fraught
with danger in those medieval days. Punvro was a cruel ruler and his people
were freed from his tyranny by Jakh Botera or seventy-two Yakshas warriors.
Nothing
much remains of the fort. Besides the temple and some portions of the walls,
two structures have survived.
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| Vadi Medi at Paddhargadh, Manjal, Kutch Gujarat |
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| The mysterious ruins of Vadi Medi at Paddhargadh, Manjal, Kutch Gujarat |
Vadi
Medi is an interesting looking two-storeyed structure made of beams and
columns. The basic elements are quite
similar to the temple – high platform, huge blocks of stone and interesting
looking bharvahaks. Archaeologists believe the structure is a palace which
could also have been a Jain and Shiv temple. You can see some deities in the broken
members. Nearby is the ruined Nani Medi which could have been another palace or
temple.
The
destruction of Paddhargadh is a mystery. Some accounts say it was because of
the invasion by Jakhs who either destroyed it or cursed it. It is most likely
that the series of earthquakes that have regularly rattled Kutch, starting with
the one in the 9th century which probably destroyed Paddhargadh.
The
Jakhs form an important part of Kutch folklore. Jakh Botera are folk deities who are revered by the Kutch people with temples dedicated to them. The Jakhs
were believed to be of fair complexion, good looking, rode horses and probably
came through the sea route. It seems they were Persians while some believe they
were Parsis.
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| Jakh Botera Temple with 72 Yakshas |
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| No this is not Mediterranean! Shri Yaksheshwar Mahadev Temple at Kakkadbhit in Kutch |
It
is time to visit the Shri Yaksheshwar Mahadev Temple perched on a hill called
Kakkadbhit few kilometres from Manjal towards Lakhpat. There is nothing old
about this temple painted bright white. But there is something that you never
expected. Inside the sanctum there are seventy two idols of Yakshas mounted on
their horses. Faith of people and its expression always leave you baffled.
Outside, the white colonnade facade glimmers under the brilliant blue skies.
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| Tropic of Cancer on the Bhuj Lakhpat Road - Kutch Gujarat |
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| Today you are greeted with the best looking skies in your entire trip as cottony clouds drift over the rollercoaster road |
And then you hit the Tropic of Cancer for the third time - first time it was here about two years ago on the way to White Rann from Bhuj, second time was on the way to Sanchi from Bhopal and now!
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| Ashapura Mata Temple in Matano Madh, Kutch |
The
temple run continues as you reach the village of Matano Vadh which has Kutch’s
most revered and famous temple called Ashapura Mata Temple. Ashapura Mata is
worshipped as the Kuldevi of the erstwhile Jadeja rulers of Kutch. The original
temple was damaged by the 1819 earthquake and was rebuilt in 1880. The temple
built with yellow sandstone is pretty but as it always happen with you, it is
closed for the afternoon. A big dining hall serves free lunch to the devotees.
You are beginning to love Gujarati food – the sweet kadhi, accompanying sweets
and chaas. It is time to move on.
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| This is what you call the perfect road |
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| This is what you love about India - people are always happy no matter what |
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| Even in the remote Kutch, like a mirage you will see a woman in a bright odhni or this boy sitting contentedly by the road |
The
road is perfect, the blue skies are joyous. Driving through Kutch has been a
delight so far. Soon puffs of white clouds appear in the blue sky. This is
getting better and better. This is a perfect day to be out on a road trip. All
around Kutch, landscape with occasional scrubs extend on both sides. Cows and
buffaloes along with a Rabari herder make an occasional appearance. India is
never without human presence – whether here in marshlands of Kutch, in Thar
Desert beyond Jaisalmer or on the brinks of Majuli Island in the middle of
Brahmaputra.
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| Brace yourselves - another rollercoaster loop coming up |
The
rollercoaster road continues to thrill and delight as it goes through another
loop of aerial ascent as if trying to reach the clouds. One moment you are
touching the sky and in a blink you are hurtling down to the bottom of the valley
towards the concrete concourse called Papadi. It seems the marshland of Kutch
was once criss-crossed by streams which have mostly dried up now. Hillocks of
rock and mud have created this rollercoaster landscape.
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| Just when you expect to find Siyot Caves, there is another complex of newly built temples. The scale of construction across India is mindboggling |
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Literally in the middle of nowhere, there are palatial bunglows
- on the way to Siyot off the highway
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About
110 kms from Bhuj you make a detour of about ten kms. You are in Siyot village.
The Siyot Caves Complex or Kateshwar is just beyond the town. Here in the
middle of practically nowhere there are palatial houses probably built by NRIs.
You descend into another valley to find another temple complex.
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| Finally the hill that has the Siyot Caves - Hsuan Tsang was here |
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| Siyot Caves in Kutch |
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| Clouds put up a show for you over the Siyot Caves |
As
you emerge out of the stream valley the hill with the caves appears up ahead. The
remoteness, the sudden calmness signals that you are approaching a Buddhist
site. A narrow track leads you to the group of east facing Siyot Caves. The
main cave is a surprise with an ambulatory path cut around the sanctum. It is
believed that this is a Shiv Temple probably dating back to 1st or 2nd
AD. Discovery of seals and traces of Brahmi inscriptions lead us to believe
that the temples were later used by Buddhists. Rest of the caves are simple and
single celled. In the 7th century, Hsuan Tsang visited this cave
complex which was a part of about 80 caves that he saw at the mouth of Indus. Unbelievable
– you are following in the footsteps of the great Chinese traveller from
Vadnagar to Siyot!
Come
again, mouth of Indus - here in Siyot?! Yes, Indus once flowed into this area
and a little to the Northwest at Lakhpat, a fortress town. Last time
around you were in Kutch, it was a toss-up between the White Rann and Kalo
Dungar or Lakhpat. Rann won that time around. You knew you will be back soon. After
Dholavira, Lakhpat is the reason is you are venturing this far into the
north-western tip of Kutch. It was ordained on the day you went to Rann that
you will be back, this time driving through Kutch.
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| Another wish fulfilled - first sight of Lakhpat |
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| Lakhpat Ahoy |
You
again crest another hump on the road and lo and behold like a mirage Lakhpat appears
over the horizon. Far on the left, rising out of the brown wasteland you can
see fortifications and bastions. White clouds in blue skies hang low over the
town. Even this far, you can sense an unmistakable despondency emanating from
the dried Rann. The once powerful walls are decaying; almost claimed by the
ground. The town seems like a once powerful warrior, now on his knees, head
bowed. The only cheer is the sky spreading the protective blue sheet comforting
the warrior in death throes.
The
propensity to build forts in India amazing – you can find them everywhere; on
the hilltop, on the ground, by the river and here in the salty wastelands of
Kutch. You always wondered why a fort would be built in the middle of wasteland
and to protect what. Of course, things were a little different two hundred
years back. Most forts were felled by internal sabotage or defeat in battles.
Tughlaqabad in Delhi was felled by the curse of a saint. Lakhpat was felled by
consequences of a natural calamity - consequences the town had no control over.
Your wish of seeing India’s most northwest fort has come true on this wonderful
day. You can’t wait to enter the gates.
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| So this is what happened - Lakhpat is on the left |
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| Abracadabra - and now you see Lakhpat on your right! |
Going
ahead straight you again dip into a trough. The fort has disappeared! You are
looking around. They did say it was a ghost town. You turn left. Surprise
surprise, the fort has miraculously moved over to your right side now! Is
Lakhpat playing tricks on your mind? So what happened is this – you could not
see this road approaching the south gate from your vantage point few minutes
ago. The topography first hid the road and then made the fort appear on your
right! You did say this road is the most fun you will ever have in India!
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| South Gate of Lakhpat, Kutch Gujarat |
You
enter the Lakhpat town named after Rao Lakha who reportedly ruled here in the
13th century, protected by the walls that were built by Rao Lakhpatji
in middle of 18th century and which were further expanded by Fateh
Muhammad in 1801. The entry is called the South Gate or Bhuj Varo Nako &
Toll Gate protected by two bastions on either side. The wooden door lies
decaying prone on the ground. A
dislodged image sits on the road. An occasional vehicle passes through the
gate.
You
step inside the walled town, and like practically every heritage site in
Gujarat, the town is again a disappointment. It is a dusty and sandy and
unkempt scrubland. In Gujarat it seems there is a deliberate attempt to let the
heritage wither and crumble away. With the exception of World Heritage sites of
Champaran-Pavagadh and Rani-ni Vav in Patan and to some extent Modhera Sun
Temple, every heritage looks derelict, despondent and disappointing. There is a
total disconnect between the TV ads and what you find on the ground. Something
is fundamentally wrong with this pretentious exercise. Maharashtra is equally
bad but at least they do not have TV ads glorifying their heritage sites. But then
you are not in MP and you expected this.
The
current state of almost oblivion at this South Gate is a far cry from the heady
days two hundred years ago. Lakhpat was
the main port of Sindh. Indus flowed in bringing waters from the Himalayas.
Water that created a delta that enabled the ships to come in loaded with goods.
Trade prospered and so did the town. Some say the town got its name from the
one lakh koris (local currency) the town earned daily from the overseas trade.
Camel caravans would cross this Toll Gate carrying goods that would be shipped
to the corners of Indian Ocean. Custom officers collected taxes before letting
the traders inside the town. This same deserted place would have been teeming
with camel carts, traders, shops and the town folks. Plenty of Indus water made
the entire region a rice bowl. Instead of the scrubland all around, there would
have been water soaked green rice fields. The town had everything going for it.
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| The Kids of Lakhpat |
And
then the earthquake of 1819 struck. In the aftermath of the earthquake a bund
was created to the north and Indus moved fifty kms to the north in Sindh. From
a prosperous trading port and a rice bowl, Lakhpat overnight became a deserted
town. The port dried up bringing the trade to a halt. The land dried up and
with it all the rice cultivation. Lakhpat’s population dwindled down to 6500
from a peak of 15000 inhabitants. By 1880 there were just 2500 people left.
Lakhpat had turned into a ghost town. All the dried channels you saw today were
probably the streams and canals bringing water to the rice fields two hundred
years ago. Today, all you see is salt marsh and scrub. Lakhpat was felled by a
river changing its course; another casualty in the long history of cities fading
into oblivion as rivers disappeared. The town is a tumble of deserted houses
and havelis. Today, about 500 people live within the walled town. You were not
expecting to see many people here. But this is India and there will always be
people whether in the remote hills of Meghalaya or here on the tip of Kutch.
Despite
the disappointment, you will go look for few things here and maybe get to see
some Rann and Kori Creek from the bastions.
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| Gurudwara Lakhpat Sahib |
First
stop is the Gurudwara Lakhpat Sahib or Gurudwara Pehli Patshahi. Guru Nanak had
stopped in Lakhpat for few days in early 15th century on his way to
Mecca and Medina. The gurudwara is a pretty looking small white building with
some beautiful jharokhas. The premises are calm and you enjoy a wonderful cup
of tea prepared in the langar.
After making a donation you come out into the
dishevelled town.
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| The only good thing about Gujarat Heritage - these signs put up by Department of Archaeology, Government of Gujarat |
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| The blingy signs in Lakhpat |
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| The above sign came loaded on the camel cart! Photo Courtesy - Blog: Insourced to India |
Just like Maharashtra, Gujarat Tourism and ASI
is also doing a good job hiding the crumbling heritage. The only good thing in
Gujarat are these neat little signs put up by Department of Archaeology,
Government of Gujarat. Bilingual, the signs succinctly explain the structure in
simple language. With a tag line and a photo, the signs seem to be written by
the same person across the state. But since the sign is on a tin plate, most of
them have started rusting. You are thankful for small mercies.
And
then you see these signs in Lakhpat. Now these are even better and bigger and
blinger with carved wood panels on the top and bottom. You are really impressed
and while researching Lakhpat, you find the person partly responsible for these
signs in Lakhpat.
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| Hatkeshwar Temple built by the Nagar community in 1850. The Nagar community worked as teachers, administrators and mercantile officers in the trading port town - Lakhpat Kutch |
To
the south of the tomb are the Jama Masjid and Sayyed Pir Shah Dargah. The
dargah with beautiful jalis is getting, for a change, a pleasant new coat of
paint.
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| Ramparts of Lakhpat Town, Kutch in Gujarat |
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| After White Rann this is the Brown Rann! View from Lakhpat Ramparts |
The
entire town is surrounded by walls and bastions. You climb one of the bastions
to see the Rann. Here to the north all you see is brown marsh of Kori Creek.
Maybe it is low tide now and the channel would fill up few hours later. There is no sheet of white salt either. The
wall to the East has a BSF post which keeps an eye on the border.
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| Time to say goodbye to Lakhpat |
The
sun is about to set. You plan to catch the sun over the mouth of Kori Creek thirty
five kms away. Leaving the southern gate and heading southwest, the road again is
a breeze.
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| Koteshwar Mahadev Temple - India's western most Shiv Temple in Kutch |
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Sunset at Kori Creek
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| Kori Creek |
You reach Kori Creek just in time as the sun
goes down spreading this golden luminescence all around. In the distance, boats
bob on the shimmering water. Bells ring out for the evening arti at
the Koteshwar Mahadev Temple built on a high platform on the left. Like
everything around, the temple glows in the sunset light. Like two evenings
ago, you again find yourself in this incredible Kutch dusk when your feet seemingly levitate and you float in this nothingness. The feeling again is
indescribable when everything goes quiet around you and the golden and pink and
blue hues of the sky take you in their embrace.
The
journey will continue.
Day's
Stats
Route Taken – Bhuj – Nakhatrana –
Lakhpat by SH 42 and Lakhpat to Narayan Sarovar by SH 6
Distance covered – 205 kms
Total Distance covered so far - 1791
kms
References
